My Way Along the Talimena Byway

October 28, 2016 Teressa Jackson

The Ouachita National Forest, Pencil Bluff, Arkansas

I left Hot Springs this morning and headed west through the Ouachita National Forest. Winding around and around through the gorgeous trees, there was nearly no civilization until I arrived in Mena, Arkansas. I even passed a tiny airport that also housed a dentist's office along the way - now I call that RURAL (and efficient?).

Mena is the eastern starting point of the Talimena National Scenic Byway. I had crafted my route to see this stretch of road at the suggestion of my mother. Long ago, before I was born, my parents lived in Wilburton, Oklahoma, which is near the western end of the byway.

As soon as I turned onto the byway, the road started going up, up, up, and I was quickly greeted with amazing vistas of the Ozarks and the valleys and lakes below. The engineers who designed this roadway were smart, providing ample turnoffs and parking areas to stop and take in the views. I didn't skip any of them, which means I might win the world record for longest amount of time to drive this stretch of road.

Along the trail, I entered the State of Oklahoma, land of my birth. I snapped a photo with the sign and took a short jaunt down to the historic spike marking the state border. I also got so excited that I left my sunglasses in the grass there. I guess I get to shop for a new pair of shades!

Shortly after my stop at the state line, I hopped out at another overlook. A couple was finishing up taking photos, and she excitedly turned to me, showed me her hand, and said, "We just got engaged! I know I don't know you but I have to tell somebody!" They were so happy, and it was too sweet. I insisted on taking their photo together so they would have a good one to remember the moment.

I took about 1,239,552 photos of the mountains on my way along the Talimena today, but none of them could ever truly demonstrate the true beauty or scale of this gorgeous area. I'll do my best to portray my version of it, soon, when I finally sit down with my paint and brushes... :-)

My 5 Experiences in Hot Springs

October 27, 2016 Teressa Jackson

My morning view leaving Eureka Springs, near Morgan, Arkansas

I left Eureka Springs bright and early Tuesday. I was eager to get on the road, catch some nice morning vistas, and put the 4-hour trek behind me. The morning views did not disappoint. Shortly after leaving Eureka Springs, I had to pull over near Morgan, Arkansas to grab some lovely shots of the foggy Ozark Mountains.

I neglected to fill my gas tank prior to leaving Eureka Springs, and my anxiety level started to build as the needle went down and there was no trace of civilization in sight. I had routed myself on back roads so I could enjoy the Pig Trail Scenic Byway, and while it was full of gorgeous views, I have never been so happy in my life to see a gas station. I drove through a few more (somewhat) populated areas, but all in all, the drive to Hot Springs was extremely rural.

I arrived at the Alpine Inn in Hot Springs a bit earlier than check-in, but Leslie, the very friendly Scottish owner, was kind enough to let me go ahead and occupy my adorable little room. I was feeling worn out and crashed for about an hour. What did I do next?

Lots of Art Deco architecture to enjoy here

1. Walked Downtown and Enjoyed the Architecture

Leslie had said it was around a mile's walk to downtown, so after my slumber, I set off on foot to see Hot Springs. I soon realized that while a mile is very walkable for me, I probably should have driven it first to get the lay of the land. I'm not going to get too involved in national political discourse, but I will say that I don't particularly appreciate males heckling or objectifying me, and this mile involved a fair share of it. While it might seem to some to be a harmless activity, the problem with being the target is you never really know if someone is simply being a little too frisky or if their behavior is a precursor to something more nefarious.

Once I got into the main downtown area, I enjoyed the wealth of historic buildings, walked around, visited the information center for the National Park, snapped a lot of photos, and headed back to my hotel (pocket knife in hand).

2. Hiked the National Park

Wednesday, I got up very early and headed out to the trails of the National Park. I got some lovely morning views as I trekked up the mountain and wound around and around through the woods. I was out for two hours before I saw another human being, which was both peaceful and a little spooky. There were plenty of squirrels, chipmunks, and a deer to keep me company, though. I visited the Hot Springs Mountain Observation Tower, which provided some great vistas of the city and surrounding area. After getting slightly lost on my way back to my car, I finally wrapped up my 4-hour, 7-mile hike.

3. Quapaw Baths & Spa

After a quick shower, I visited the Quapaw Baths & Spa. I had been given a pass by my hotel, so the entrance was free except I did have to buy a pair of rubber shoes for $3. Essentially, the experience consists of four large pools of different temperatures of water from the hot springs - 104°, 102°, 98°, and 95°. Always wanting the full experience, of course I hopped right in the 104°. I alternated laying on a lounge chair and soaking in the pool, and left feeling relaxed.

4. Superior Bathhouse Brewery

I completed my relaxation with a trip to the Superior Bathhouse Brewery, a microbrewery claiming to make the "World's First Beer Brewed with Thermal Spring Water." I enjoyed a Belgian Tripel ($2 off for happy hour!) and black eyed pea hummus (also $2 off!). I haven't been eating (or drinking) nearly as much as normal, and I quickly put it all away. Delicious!

5. Buckstaff Bath House

This morning, I woke up early, ready to hit the Buckstaff Bath House for a traditional experience. Buckstaff is the only bathhouse in Hot Springs that has operated continuously since its founding. They don't take reservations, and I couldn't sleep, so I was first in line at 8 a.m. Bear with me because I am going to describe this in detail... I've never experienced anything like it and I doubt you have, either!

I was shown to a changing stall, where I stripped down to my birthday suit and placed all my belongings in a locker. An attendant then draped me with a sheet "Roman Style" and showed me to a waiting area. I don't want to sound negative, but nothing about this is your traditional spa environment - it's very utilitarian. With the exception of the hairdryer in the dressing area, you could truly be in a very different era.

Soon, Mattie called me back to the baths. She had drawn me a tub full of hot spring water and had me disrobe (always back to the attendant) and get in the tub. She gave me two cups of hot water to sip on and scrubbed my back, legs, and feet. Then she turned on the whirlpool (which looked like a giant, ancient mixer) and left me to soak for about 15-20 minutes. This was the deepest, longest bathtub I've ever been in, and it was wonderful.

After the tub, I was wrapped in another sheet and seated on a table. Mattie put soaking, very hot towels behind me and had me lay on them. More hot towels went over my legs and a cool towel went around my face. I was given ice cubes to suck on and left to rest for another 15-20 minutes (I'm guessing on all these times... hard to really know).

Next, I was seated (naked) in the vapor cabinet, which is basically a metal closet with a seat in it, metal doors that come down over your shoulders, and a glass door on the front. I was left to steam for a few minutes with the door open, then a couple minutes with it closed so I could breathe in the vapors.

The sitz bath followed. Wrapped in a sheet, I sat on the edge of this little tub and slid down in to submerge my hips and lower back. I was also given a stool to prop up my legs while in there. Considering that my lower back was killing me when I got up this morning, I decided that I need one of these in my next home.

The needle shower sounds more dangerous than it is. Basically, it's a shower with a bunch of shower heads. I was given the opportunity to spend a few minutes rinsing off in there after the sitz bath.

After that, I had a 20 minute Swedish massage. It was one of the more "no nonsense" massages I've ever had, but it was a great way to wrap up the experience. No pan flute music, no coddling from the masseuse, no fancy oils... just a good, plain old massage.

I would say that my massage at Buckstaff sums up my time in Hot Springs. Very few people have gone out of their way to be overly friendly to me (except men in cars), but most people haven't been unfriendly either. It seems likely to me that life is not all that easy for a lot of people here. Poverty seems pretty prevalent. I don't want to sound at all as if I am judging anyone; I know that every place in this world is different and has their good points and bad points, struggles and triumphs. This is just my experience in the matter of a few days, and I'm glad to have had it.

I'm headed on to Oklahoma tomorrow!

And I'm Off!

October 24, 2016 Teressa Jackson

I've hit the road!

Anxious about a really long first day's drive, I headed out a day earlier than planned on Saturday, October 22. After grabbing my last Quills latte for a while, I headed out I-64 west, past Evansville, through Illinois and St. Louis, and eventually ended my day in Hollister, Missouri, just south of Branson. I didn't do much in Branson other than drive through the town, and the next day I was eager to get moving again.

Sunday, I visited Dogwood Canyon Nature Park. The park was founded by the owner of Bass Pro Shops. It was a little too commercialized at the entrance, but once I hit the trail through the Ozarks, it was really lovely. It is definitely more manicured than your average hiking spot, including a hiking trail that is paved in its entirety. I thought this was a nice feature, especially for anyone who might be in a wheelchair. It's so rare to see nature be truly accessible. There were plenty of waterfalls and big, beautiful fish. I walked the entire trail, altogether somewhere over 7 miles in total. The fall weather was fantastic and it felt great to stretch my legs.

From Dogwood Canyon, I drove through the Ozarks to Eureka Springs, Arkansas. This little town is filled with shops, restaurants, and incredibly friendly people. I spent a little time yesterday walking the historic town, and all day there today. Although I love all the little galleries, gift shops, and boutiques, it is a little strange to browse them now that I have essentially no belongings and am not set up to acquire any. So, I mostly enjoyed the scenery. I also splurged on a big brunch at Mud Street Cafe (I've been mostly eating peanut butter, crackers, and apples), checked out the 1886 Crescent Hotel and Spa, a true historic gem with a phenomenal view of the mountains, and visited Thorncrown Chapel, a chapel acclaimed for its architecture located just outside town in the woods.

As I already mentioned, the people in Eureka Springs are very friendly. Southern charm is in full effect here, and of course, they are reliant essentially 100% reliant on tourism so it is to their benefit to be pleasant. One of my highlights for today was meeting a man named Reck who was working at the Eureka Springs Historical Museum. Reck asked what I was doing in town, and I told him that I had sold all my belongings and was traveling the country for a year or so. He was very intrigued with this and we talked about Eureka Springs, other parts of the country to visit, and also about the value of being nice. He gave me a hug before I left with a big smile on my face.

A few minutes later, I was making my way up the street (literally UP... my Fitbit tells me I climbed 52 floors today) and a car pulls up. Reck pops out and says he just ended his shift, and wondered if I wouldn't take his cell phone number and send him a photo from my travels occasionally. I said I would be happy to do so, and snapped his photo so I'd remember the first new friend I made on my journey. It only took three days! :-)

Tomorrow, I am headed off to Hot Springs, Arkansas... a little sad to leave Eureka Springs so soon, but I'm sure I'll come back again someday.

The Long and Winding Road

October 13, 2016 Teressa Jackson

This post was edited on November 29, 2016 to include later blog posts related to this one.

Tonight, I officially hand over the keys of my home to its new owner. I'm too worn out right now to be very sentimental about it, plus there is lots to look forward to! The past week has involved selling stuff, moving stuff, packing stuff, trashing stuff, and cleaning stuff. I hope to never have that much stuff again.

On October 23, 2016, I begin my travels. My ultimate destination for the entire month of November is Las Cruces, New Mexico. I am taking a few detours along the way to see some new sites and one location that has special significance to me. My stops will include:

1. Eureka Springs, Arkansas

At the suggestion of my mother, I will be spending a short time in Eureka Springs. This city is located in the Ozark Mountains of northwest Arkansas. As an historic architecture enthusiast, I was excited to see that the entire city is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. I'm sure I will find some great photo ops and welcome a chance to feast my eyes while I stretch my legs.

Read my blog post about my time in Eureka Springs >

2. Hot Springs, Arkansas

A big fan of our National Parks, I've wanted to see Hot Springs for quite some time, so I couldn't resist adding a stop there. I will be spending a few days enjoying the sights of the town as well as the scenery along the National Park's hiking trails. I'm especially looking forward to seeing the wealth of art deco architecture there.

Read my blog post about my time in Hot Springs >

3. Tahlequah, Oklahoma

Leaving Hot Springs, I will take a drive on the Talimena Scenic Drive, a 54-mile route that twists and turns throughout the foliage of the Ouachita National Forest. The byway is known for its stunning views of the highest mountain range between the Appalachians and the Rockies.

Read my blog post about my time on the Talimena Scenic Byway >

I will continue on and stop for the evening in Tahlequah, Oklahoma, in the heart of the Cherokee Nation.

Read my blog post about my time in Tahlequah >

My family in front of our home in Enid in 1976. I'm the littlest one.

4. Enid, Oklahoma

My next destination is the only one along my route I have previously visited. Actually, I did more than visit Enid, Oklahoma - I was born there and lived my first two years in the city. I have not returned in the 38 years we have been gone. I plan to check out the "Queen Wheat City," which apparently has the most grain storage capacity in the U.S., and snap a photo of two of the old homestead on Kiowa Drive.

Read my blog post about my time in Enid >

5. Amarillo, Texas

Amarillo by morning, Amarillo's where I'll be... great song, George Strait! I'll admit it, though, I haven't found a place in Texas that I love yet. Necessity has me giving the state another try in Amarillo. Apparently Amarillo was once known as "Helium Capital of the World" for its helium fields (I never really thought about where helium came from...). The "The Yellow Rose of Texas," Amarillo operates one of the largest meat-packing areas in the United States. As a vegetarian for the past 24 years, I'm super excited about that. ;-)

6. Roswell, New Mexico

With the nickname of "Alien City" and kitschy touches like street lamps painted to look like aliens, Roswell looks like a place with a sense of humor. I plan to visit the International UFO Museum (when in Rome...), Roswell Museum & Art Center, UFO-shaped McDonald's, and other sights around town. And, hopefully, avoid becoming a part of an X Files story line.

Read my blog post about my trip from Enid to Amarillo to Roswell >

7. Landing Point for November: Las Cruces, New Mexico

Las Cruces looks like a great place to soak up some fantastic November weather. I look forward to enjoying views of the Organ Mountains, eating lots of New Mexico chile, patronizing their extensive farmers and crafts market, and day trips to locales such as Mesilla, White Sands National Monument, Silver City, Gila Cliff Dwellings, City of Rocks State Park, Cibola National Forest, and Gila National Forest.

Read my blog post about my arrival in Las Cruces >

Where to in December? I'm figuring that out! Stay tuned...

Read my blog post about my time in Las Cruces and my location for December >

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